For those of us with the urge to delve into the past, to find out what 
our ancestors did and where they came from, there is often help close at
 hand. We can begin on our home computers, or at the local library, to 
search census records, births, marriages and deaths, etc. We ‘silver 
surfers’ are also probably the first generation fortunate enough to 
enjoy a retirement which will be long enough to indulge our ‘hobby’.
The problem is that by the time we feel the urge to search for our 
roots, it is usually decades too late to ask questions of older family 
members. Quite often, we were told family stories as children, but at 
that age didn’t realise their significance. And for those of us with 
siblings, it doesn’t always follow that we all heard the same stories – 
siblings often have different versions of a shared childhood.
My father came from a large family, and his mother lived until I was in 
my thirties with a family of my own, but there were no anecdotes passed 
down; they were not a family of ‘talkers’, and I was able to gain only 
the briefest glimpse of what life must have been like for him as a 
child. But with regard to actual information, a cousin had begun 
researching my paternal family tree long before it became ‘popular’, and
 at the time of his death had produced a family tree that stretched back
 centuries and had more branches than a forest.
With my mother’s family, it was different. She was born in Liverpool of 
Spanish parents and because of the stories I had been told as a child, I
 felt more emotionally involved. My curiosity was aroused, perversely, 
because the difficulties in obtaining certificates and any other 
‘concrete’ evidence of my Spanish heritage seemed insurmountable.
Where do you begin when all you know about your maternal grandparents 
are their names and that they came from Galicia, possibly Santiago de 
Compostela, in Northern Spain? Where do you begin when, at the age of 
sixty, you find yourself with the urge to discover your grandmother’s 
roots – the grandmother who died in Liverpool when you were ten years 
old and who, to your knowledge, still didn’t speak English after fifty 
years in this country?
I set off to Northern Spain on my first voyage of discovery in 2000, 
with very little hope but a lot of enthusiasm. The full story of my 
search is documented in my book Chasing Shadows, but what has been 
important to me is not just the physical journeys – seven in the past 14
 years – but the people I have met and the effect my research has had on
 my life in retirement. Yes, it is wonderful to have a maternal family 
tree going back to 1822, with the possibility of reaching even further 
back as time and funds allow, but the memories involved in obtaining 
each and every one of those birth, marriage and death certificates are 
priceless. 
Officials in Registro Civils and in Diocesan Arquivos have gone beyond 
the call of duty as I’ve sat hour after hour in bright modern offices 
housed in medieval buildings. I speak very little Spanish and many of 
the people I met didn’t speak English, yet somehow we managed to 
communicate. And my joy at unravelling yet another thread has often been
 matched by the smile on the face of an official – the story of this 
elderly lady from England trying to find her Spanish roots has somehow 
touched their imagination.
Searching through BMD or census records on your computer, or scrolling 
through microfiches in the family history section of a public library is
 exciting, but it cannot be compared to the thrill of sitting in a room 
in a foreign city, carefully turning the pages of a book containing 
entries written hundreds of years ago. Even when not allowed to handle 
the books oneself – as in the Registro Civil in Santiago de Compostela –
 the air of tension in the room as my eyes followed the clerk’s finger 
moving slowly down the page looking for my grandmother’s family name, 
and the leap of excitement when I recognised the name of her sister, is 
what turned my love of research into an obsession. 
I find it amazing that on visits to the Registro Civil in subsequent 
years, it was evident that the clerk remembered me. It amazes me that on
 visiting a bar on our trip to Galicia this summer, the owner not only 
remembered me and my husband but could recall every moment of the 
morning 14 years before when he’d introduced us to a young girl, Nicola,
 who was on holiday from London staying with the Spanish side of her 
family. Then aged only 16, Nicola has become a much-loved friend. We 
attended her wedding to Antonio in 2007 – it meant so much to me to be 
able to attend a truly Spanish wedding – and also count her parents, who
 live in London, as special friends. It is a joy to see Nicola and 
Antonio’s beautiful four-year old daughter being brought up, as was 
Nicola, bilingual and fully aware of her dual heritage; something that 
was denied me.
Other people have been instrumental in making my research a 
life-changing journey of discovery. Without the help of Father Joseph 
Fleming, originally from Liverpool and when we met him, an archivist in 
the Arquivo Histórico Diocesano in Santiago, my research would never 
have got off the ground. It is our great personal regret that he died, 
tragically young, before he could see the outcome of his help and 
influence. 
Other people have filled in gaps for me. Trawling through sites 
connected with maritime history on the internet, I eventually met David 
Eccles, the author of a book on the Larrinaga Shipping Line which 
employed my grandfather. Through him, I met a family whose grandfather 
had been a chauffeur to the Larrinagas and was able to peruse family 
photograph albums. Kirsty Hooper, now Associate Professor of Hispanic 
Studies at Warwick University, was in that same post at Liverpool 
University when I attended one of her lectures a couple of years ago. 
Kirsty is compiling a database of Galician and Basque immigrants to 
Liverpool in the years 1850-1950 and I hope to speak at its launch in 
Liverpool at the end of the year. Through Kirsty, I was introduced to 
Xesús Fraga, journalist, writer and translator, who interviewed me for 
his newspaper La Voz de Galicia last year. By another of those 
coincidences I have experienced over the years, Xesús is from Betantoz, 
the Galician city where my grandfather may have been born. I say ‘may 
have’, as I have only the most slender of clues about his life at 
present. We met Xesús in person on our last visit and his help in 
introducing me to the director of the Museo das Mariñas which holds 
census records, may be the tiny thread that leads me to unravelling the 
mystery of my grandfather’s life prior to him arriving in Liverpool.
The city of Santiago de Compostela has become a very special part of my 
life. Even when I return from a trip without a certificate or a piece of
 definite information, I have soaked up the atmosphere, I have seen all 
the houses where my grandmother lived – not possible in Liverpool since 
they have all been demolished. I have sat in churches in Santiago where 
family baptisms, first holy communions and weddings have taken place. I 
have had lunch in a restaurant with the proof in my hand that my 
great-great grandmother died in an upstairs room of the building over a 
hundred years before. On this trip I walked through the cemetery where 
my great-grandparents were buried and I now have an address where I may 
be able to obtain the whereabouts of their actual graves.
Family history magazines are a great source of information for 
genealogists at all stages of their research – I have just had an 
article published in July’s edition of Your Family Tree – and, very 
slowly, some information is now coming through on the internet if, like 
me, your ancestors originated from another European country.
None of my research would have been possible without the support of my 
husband. Each time we take a trip to Santiago it has been incorporated 
into our annual holiday. We love staying with Nicola’s family while we 
carry out three or four days’ research before moving on to tour other 
parts of Spain. We have visited the length and breadth of Galicia; from 
its historic cities of Coruña and Lugo to its golden, unspoilt beaches, 
mountains and forests. We have holidayed further afield in Cantabria and
 the Picos mountains; and the beautiful cities of Oviedo, Léon, 
Salamanca and Cacerés – but Santiago de Compostela is still where my 
heart lies! 
So, family history, is it a hobby or an obsession? Writing about family 
history research has become a very enjoyable hobby, and it still gives 
me a thrill when someone buys my book. But as for the actual research – 
the answer is definitely, an obsession!
 
 
As ever totally fascinating and informative.
ReplyDelete