Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, northern Spain, is a city of
pilgrimage for Roman Catholics, the main focal point being its
cathedral, believed to house the tomb of St James. The cathedral has
been rebuilt four times, its golden Baroque shell enclosing a medieval
interior. The cathedral is set in Santiago's main square, the Praza do
Obradoiro, in the heart of the old city. It is flanked on one side by
the Hotel Reis Catolicos, originally a pilgrim's hostel built in the
early 1500s, but now a luxurious parador. The praza is unusual in that
it is not lined with restaurants, pavement cafes or souvenir shops but
it is always thronged with people, groups of tourists who have been
coached in from cruise ships anchored at Vigo; Spanish tourists flocking
in from the bus station, a stone's throw from the cathedral; weary
pilgrims, weighed down with backpacks, often wearing the traditional
cloak, hat and staff and hurrying to climb the cathedral's magnificent Baroque steps and enter its Romanesque doorway, the Portico de la Gloria, or 'Gateway to Heaven in time for the midday
service.
However, there is no shortage of restaurants, bars, taverns and
opportunities for souvenir shopping in the smaller squares and narrow,
granite paved streets of the historical centre. Places to sit and stare,
to enjoy a tortilla and a glass of rioja, followed by a slice of
traditional Santiago tarte, whilst marvelling at the architecture of the
dozens of monasteries, convents, churches and museums. One great
advantage of the city is that its historical heart is small enough to be
explored on foot and has an intimate atmosphere which is vibrant
without being frenetic.
Outside the old centre, Santiago is a city like many others, with
department stores, commercial buildings, hotels, fountains and green
spaces – and traffic. If you wish to travel further afield, hire a car
and visit the seaside town of Sada or the bustling port of La Coruna,
with its attractive glazed facades lining the Paseo Maritimo.
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